Travel & Leisure
Chuck wagons dish up taste of Texas cowboy's life
08:36 AM CDT on Friday, August 29, 2008
If you had been a cowboy on the early trail rides, your meals would have been whatever you could carry. Imagine how thankful those guys were when Texas rancher Charles Goodnight devised the first chuck wagon.
From these portable kitchens, cooks – often former cowboys – served batches of tasty provisions. Staples included black-eyed peas, beans, corn and cabbage, and plenty of beef and bison steaks and stews flavored with chiles, garlic and onions. Biscuits and bread were made from sourdough, and cowboy coffee (made with no special equipment) always was available.
Fortunately, you don't have to ride the trail these days to sample genuine cowboy cuisine. Using the most important piece of equipment, a Dutch oven set on coals, cooks can turn out meat and vegetables as well as tasty fruit pies and cakes. In the old days, this was a cast-iron pot with legs and a rimmed lid that held additional coals.
Here are places where you can experience chuck-wagon chow and the culture that spices it:
•National Cowboy Symposium and Celebration, Lubbock Memorial Civic Center, Thursday through Sunday. This annual event includes the National Championship Chuck Wagon Cook-off with wagons coming from around the country. A $15 ticket gets you an old-time meal prepared by a cook-off competitor. While you're celebrating, enjoy cowboy music and a display showing 100 years of Western fashion. The Will Rogers Memorial Trick Roping Contest is new this year. Contact: 806-798-7825; www.cowboy.org.
•Red Steagall Cowboy Gathering and Chuck Wagon Cook-off, Fort Worth, Oct. 24-26. This popular festival is in one of the great cow towns along the historic Chisholm Trail that linked Texas ranches with Kansas railheads. After judging for the Chuck Wagon Competition is finished, you can sample the entries for free.
Want more cowboy culture? Listen to cowboy stories and music at the gathering started by Mr. Steagall, a recording artist and renowned cowboy poet. Cheer real cowboys competing in the ranch rodeo, or watch the Trail Ride and Wagon Train parade into downtown. Contact: www.redsteagallcowboy gathering.com.
•Star of Texas Fair and Rodeo, Austin, March 13-28. Founded in 1938, it's among the oldest venues for preserving Western heritage. Competitors are judged on entries such as meat, beans, potatoes, bread and dessert prepared by old-fashioned trail-ride methods. But culinary skills aren't the only thing rated in the Old West Chuck Wagon Cook-off. Restored or replicated trail wagons – drivable and having at least two sideboards – are rated on authenticity, including construction, artifacts and equipment from the era. Contact: 512-919-3000; www.staroftexas.org.
•Lonesome Pine Ranch consists of more than 1,600 acres between Bellville and Chappell Hill. On this working guest ranch, you can get down and dirty on a roundup or relax and enjoy nature. Whether you come to ride the range, fish or just hang out, don't miss a cowboy meal prepared by owner John Elick and served from a restored chuck wagon. Mr. Elick grills steaks over bois d'arc wood on a fire pit or fries fish (caught on premises) in an old-fashioned Dutch oven. Even if you aren't staying overnight, ask about dining. Contact: 979-885-8338; www.staroftexas.org.
•Nailhead Spur Co. in Llano caters chuck-wagon dinners at your site. Cooks wear period clothing, and owner Charles Wendt uses his grandmother's original Dutch oven – seasoned from 100 years of use – set on a bed of mesquite coals on the ground to cook beans, potatoes, sourdough biscuits and even cobblers and pineapple upside-down cake. Contact: 325-247-2589; www.nailheadspur.com.
•Canyon Trail Chuckwagon Supper and Cowboy Music Show at Canyon Lake, west of San Marcos, provides a favorite Hill Country family attraction. The English Brothers, all Texas-born, perform classic Western songs with a dose of bunkhouse humor after meals. Texas-style barbecued beef brisket, wrangler beans, potatoes and applesauce are served with tortillas, dessert and drinks on weekends from Memorial Day through Labor Day and Saturdays in September, October and December. Contact: 210-705-3583; www.canyontrailchuckwagon.com.
•Southfork Ranch, Parker. Fans of the long-running television show Dallas can tour Southfork Ranch and experience the lifestyle made famous by the fictional Ewing family, then have a barbecue sandwich at Miss Ellie's Deli. Groups of 20 or more can indulge in a scrumptious chuck-wagon dinner at a "camp." Smoked beef brisket (douse it with Miss Ellie's famous barbecue sauce), Southern potato salad, Southfork-style beans, coleslaw, trail biscuits and warm strawberry cobbler complete the menu. Cowboys entertain with campfire songs, and ranch hands tell Western stories. Contact: 1-800-989-7800; www.southforkranch.com.
The National Cowgirl Museum and Hall of Fame in Fort Worth will teach chuck-wagon cooking at Cowgirl University on Dec. 6. During the class, participants will learn how frontier cooking evolved under difficult conditions into surprisingly wonderful meals prepared in Dutch ovens. Cost is $45 for the cooking lesson with lunch. Contact: 1-800-476-3263; www.cowgirl.net.
Beverly Burmeier is a freelance writer in Austin.
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