This is the time of year when many of us head to the supermarket in search of those long, green pods that resemble Anaheim chiles. This is when chefs pull out the stops using Hatch chiles.

KYE R. LEE/DMN

Hot stuff: Green Chile Corn Bread Muffins, from grower Patsy Lytle, and Hatch Chile Gazpacho, from Blue Mesa restaurants.

This fascination with chiles from Hatch is fairly recent. But the region has grown chiles for hundreds of years.

The Village of Hatch is less than 4 square miles of fertile land along the Rio Grande, about 70 miles northwest of El Paso. It sits in the middle of the Hatch Valley, which runs along the river from Caballo Lake to Radium Springs.

Spanish colonists brought chiles here from Mexico in the 1500s, according to Dr. Paul Bosland, horticulture professor at New Mexico State University in Las Cruces and director of The Chile Pepper Institute. And NMSU has been helping Hatch farmers develop new breeds since the early 1900s. But only in the past two decades has demand for Hatch green chiles boomed, he says.

The reasons for that?

Media, the Internet and restaurateurs looking for new ways to stimulate diners' palates, says National Fiery Foods & Barbecue Show founder Dave DeWitt.

"Everybody was afraid, of course, that chile was going to hurt you," he says. "Now people know more because of magazines, Web sites and books. People know chile is really good. They have a hunger for it. And when it comes in fresh ... that's why the festivals are harvest-based festivals.

"It's only for the green chile; there is no red-chile festival that I know of," he says. "Hatch chile is generally regarded as being a green thing."

An irony when you consider that farmers sell red chiles year-round, while the green harvest lasts about six weeks.

When green chiles ripen, they turn red. Once red, the chile's skin adheres to the flesh so it can't be roasted. Farmers put red chiles through dehydrating ovens. They sell them dried or grind them into powder.

Yet it's the romance of having fresh, green chiles that has chileheads waiting for the harvest year after year.

Given the growing reputation of Hatch chiles, is it any surprise that lots of people want a piece of the green-chile profit? Stories abound about growers from, say, Mexico or Arizona selling chiles in Hatch and passing them off as locally grown.

"More Hatch chile is sold than is grown in New Mexico," says Dr. Bosland. "People call green chile Hatch chile. That could have been grown in Arizona or Texas and shipped someplace."

"Hatch" is not a variety, says David Lucero, a New Mexico Department of Agriculture marketing specialist. "Hatch is only a growing area."

"The same variety of chile is grown throughout Southern New Mexico," he says. Still, only chiles grown in the Hatch Valley can be called Hatch chiles.

If you see the similarities between Anaheim and New Mexico chiles, it's because in the late 1800s, one variety was taken to California to grow there. Anaheims came from New Mexico chiles originally, says Dr. Bosland.

Recipes written for Hatch chiles can be made with Anaheims or other green chiles. You can even replace the long green chiles with something like jalapeño.

Hatch green chiles come in heat levels from mild to medium, from hot to extra-hot. The chiles sold in local stores tend to be on the mild side.

Reputable sources such as Central Market and restaurants that tout Hatch chiles have distributors who buy directly from farmers in the Hatch Valley.

"Our chile comes off from the last of July through September," says Duane Gillis of Gillis Farms and Hatch Valley Chile Co. If you buy Hatch green chiles before then, you've been had.

Whether you already bought your chiles or are looking for a place to get some, read on for tips on how to roast and freeze, and how to use them.

•There are actually five types of chiles harvested in New Mexico: Green chiles (such as the one harvested now), paprika, cayenne, jalapeño and red chiles (which is what green chiles become when ripe).

•The Anaheim chile, grown in California, is actually a cultivar (or bred from) the New Mexico green chile, and not the other way around.

SOURCES: New Mexico Department of Agriculture, Dr. Paul Bosland of The Chile Pepper Institute

Choose chiles that are bright green, smooth, symmetrical, heavy for their size, mature and crisp. Chiles that curl up tightly are hard to roast in your oven or on your stove, so pick pods that will lie relatively flat.

SOURCE: New Mexico Department of Agriculture

During the green chile season, you can buy fresh chiles or you can buy them already roasted. It's easier (and pricier) to buy chiles already roasted. But for those of us in love with green chiles, a big part of the fun is to roast our own and let the aroma fill our kitchens.

There are several ways to do this, and it's really hard to mess up, so give it a shot.

Oven or broiler method: Place chiles in a hot oven or broiler for 6 to 8 minutes or until skin blisters away from the flesh of the chile.

Range-top method: Cover gas or electric burner with a layer of heavy wire mesh and place chiles on mesh once it's hot. Remove once skin has blistered.

Outdoor grill method: Place chiles on a charcoal or gas grill about 5 to 6 inches above heat source. Remove once skin has blistered.

Comal method: Heat the comal (the cast-iron plaque used to heat tortillas). Place several chiles on it, and turn them as they blacken.

Once the chiles are blistered black all over, place them in a plastic or paper bag for about 10 minutes. Take out and remove the skin. Running them under cool water takes the skin right off.

Freeze as quickly as possible if you're not going to use them. If you freeze them, prep them all the way, meaning de-stem them and remove the seeds. Put them in plastic bags that can lie flat for faster freezing.

SOURCES: New Mexico Department of Agriculture and Central Market Cooking School

Pat shrimp dry with paper towels. In a bowl, combine shrimp with remaining ingredients except salt. Add salt to taste. Refrigerate for 20 minutes. Serve over fish steaks or fillets such as swordfish, halibut or red snapper.

SOURCE: Sofia Atencio/Hatch Chile Festival 11th Edition, 2000

Sear stew meat in a large skillet, adding onions the last 5 minutes. Add water and garlic, and simmer until meat is tender. Additional water may be added, if necessary.

Add green chiles, potatoes, salt and cumin, if desired, and simmer until potatoes are tender. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

PER SERVING: Calories 200 (28% fat) Fat 6 g (2 g sat) Cholesterol 53 mg Sodium 475 mg Fiber 3 g Carbohydrates 17 g Protein 18 g

SOURCE: New Mexico Department of Agriculture

Preheat oven to 350 F. Sauté onions and garlic in a large, nonstick saucepan until soft. Add soup, milk, chiles, pepper and salt. Bring to a simmer, remove from heat. Stir in chicken.

In a 13x9-inch glass pan, layer corn tortillas, chicken sauce and cheese. You may need a small overflow dish. Cover with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Uncover, and bake an additional 20 minutes, or until casserole begins to pull away from side of pan. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

PER SERVING: Calories 260 (39% fat) Fat 12 g (6 g sat) Cholesterol 45 mg Sodium 450 mg Fiber 4 g Carbohydrates 23 g Protein 17 g

SOURCE: New Mexico Department of Agriculture

Char chiles over gas flame or in broiler until blackened on all sides. Enclose in paper bag; let stand 10 minutes. Peel, seed and chop chiles. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 400 F. Butter 9x5x2-inch metal loaf pan. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt to blend. Stir in cheese. Whisk buttermilk, eggs and butter in another medium bowl to blend. Add egg mixture to dry ingredients, and stir just until blended. Mix in chiles. Transfer batter to prepared pan.

Bake until deep golden brown on top and tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. (Check at about 20 minutes.) Turn bread out onto rack, and cool completely. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

PER SERVING: Calories 307 (37% fat) Fat 12 g (8 g sat) Cholesterol 79 mg Sodium 704 mg Fiber 2 g Carbohydrates 38 g Protein 10 g

SOURCE: Central Market recipe adapted from Bon Appétit, December 1998

Blend vegetable broth, quartered tomatoes and chiles in a food processor. Transfer to a large bowl or pitcher.

Mix in cucumber, jicama, chopped tomatoes, green onions, cilantro and lime juice, reserving garnishes. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and chill at least 2 hours and up to 6 hours.

Ladle chilled soup into bowls and garnish with chopped jicama, roasted chiles and avocado chunks. Makes 4 servings.

PER SERVING: Calories 71 (13% fat) Fat 1 g (No sat) No cholesterol Sodium 558 mg Fiber 5 g Carbohydrates 14 g Protein 3 g

Preheat oven to 425 F. Grease muffin pans well; set aside. Prepare mix according to package directions, adding chiles, corn, oil and cheese. Fill muffin pans two-thirds full, and bake 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Makes 18 muffins.

PER SERVING: Calories 151 (42% fat) Fat 7 g (2 g sat) Cholesterol 6 mg Sodium 376 mg Fiber 1 g Carbohydrates 19 g Protein 3 g

SOURCE: Patsy Lytle/Hatch Chile Festival 11th Edition, 2000